Skip to content
For businesses →HelpLog in
Yamate › Tradie calculators › Solar system size

What size solar system do I need?

Your power use gives one number. Your roof gives another. The smaller one is your system, and this shows you which it is.

Rule of thumb, no standard
Picking one fills the output box below. It is a starting figure, not your postcode’s official rating.
Averaged over a year. Your installer’s design gives the real one for your roof and its angle.
On your bill. Or take a quarterly bill’s kWh and divide by 91.
One unshaded face, minus edges, vents and whirlybirds. Not the whole roof.
Common residential panels sit around 400–500 W.
A 1.76 m × 1.13 m panel is 1.99 m². Round to 2.

An estimate to plan with, not a system design. Only a Clean Energy Council accredited designer can size a system properly for your roof’s pitch, orientation and shading, and your distributor decides what you may connect and export. Get that in writing before you sign anything.

Installing solar for a living? Quote it in Yamate →

Rather have a pro do it? Get quotes from local solar installers.

Before you hire, check their licence where the job needs one.

How we worked this out

  • Size your use wants = daily kWh ÷ output per kW
  • Panels for that = that figure × 1000 ÷ panel watts, rounded up, you cannot buy a third of a panel
  • Panels that fit = usable roof area ÷ area per panel, rounded down
  • System size = the smaller of the two, × panel watts ÷ 1000
  • A year’s generation = system size × output per kW × 365

Where the figures come from: the arithmetic above is exact. The output-per-kW figure is not, it is a rule of thumb, and we are saying so rather than dressing it up. The authoritative per-postcode figure is the Clean Energy Regulator’s zone rating, used to work out certificate entitlements. We went to read it on 3 September 2026 and the Regulator publishes it as a downloadable document their site renders through script, which we could not open, so the city figures here are not the Regulator’s numbers and are not presented as them. Get your own postcode’s zone rating from the CER (cer.gov.au) or your installer’s design, and type it into the box. The panel dimensions are typical published residential panel sizes, also editable.

Two numbers, and the smaller one wins

Whichever number is smaller is the system you can actually have What your bill wants What the roof fits This one wins

Sizing solar is not one calculation, it is two, and people only ever do the first.

The first is how much power you get through. Divide it by what a kilowatt of panels generates in a day where you live and you have the system your bill wants. The second is how many panels physically fit on the one roof face that is not shaded at two in the afternoon. Whichever number is smaller is the system you can actually have, and on a small or awkward roof it is very often the roof.

That is worth knowing before a salesperson quotes you a 10 kW system for a house with 20 square metres of north-facing tile.

Rough output per kW, by city

Averaged across a year, on a well-oriented roof. Winter is roughly half of summer everywhere, and a west-facing array gives up something to a north-facing one.

CityRough outputWhat 6.6 kW gives you a day
Alice Springs5.0 kWh per kW~33 kWh
Darwin4.4 kWh per kW~29 kWh
Perth4.4 kWh per kW~29 kWh
Canberra4.3 kWh per kW~28 kWh
Brisbane4.2 kWh per kW~28 kWh
Adelaide4.2 kWh per kW~28 kWh
Sydney3.9 kWh per kW~26 kWh
Melbourne3.6 kWh per kW~24 kWh
Hobart3.5 kWh per kW~23 kWh
⚠️ These are rules of thumb, not the Regulator’s numbers. The official per-postcode figure is the Clean Energy Regulator’s zone rating. We could not read it from their site on 3 September 2026, and on 26 October 2026 the instrument that sets it (F2019L01583 on the Federal Register of Legislation) still loaded its text by script. Treat the table above as a starting point and replace it with your postcode’s rating or your installer’s design.

Two worked examples

Sydney, 18 kWh a day, 40 m² of usable roof, 440 W panels.

  • Your use wants 18 ÷ 3.9 = 4.62 kW
  • Panels for that 4,615 ÷ 440 = 10.5, rounded up = 11 panels
  • Panels that fit 40 ÷ 2 = 20 panels, the roof is not the limit
  • System 11 × 440 = 4.84 kW, using about 22 m² of your 40
  • A year 4.84 × 3.9 × 365 = about 6,890 kWh

Melbourne, 25 kWh a day, only 20 m² of usable roof.

  • Your use wants 25 ÷ 3.6 = 6.94 kW, which is 16 panels
  • Panels that fit 20 ÷ 2 = 10 panels
  • System 10 × 440 = 4.4 kW, the roof decided, not the bill
  • That covers 4.4 × 3.6 = 15.8 kWh of your 25, about 63%
  • The fix is more roof faces, higher-wattage panels, or accepting the shortfall, not a bigger inverter

How many solar panels do I need for 6.6, 10 or 15 kW?

Divide the system by the panel. At 440 W a panel, a 10 kW system is 23 panels and wants about 46 m² of one unshaded roof face. The rest of the table is the same sum, and the daily figures below use the city table above.

System440 W panelsRoof
6.6 kW1530 m²
10 kW2346 m²
13.2 kW3060 m²
15 kW3570 m²

What each one makes on an average day, in kWh.

SystemSydMelbBrisPerth
6.6 kW~26~24~28~29
10 kW~39~36~42~44
13.2 kW~52~48~55~58
15 kW~59~54~63~66

Going the other way, a house using 20 kWh a day wants about 5.1 kW in Sydney, 5.6 kW in Melbourne and 4.8 kW in Brisbane, and one using 40 kWh a day wants about 10 kW. Whether a 10 or 15 kW system can connect at all is your distributor’s call, and a single phase home is often held to less.

Four things that change the answer

  • Shade is not proportional. One shaded panel can drag a whole string down. Optimisers or microinverters exist for that reason, and a designer will tell you whether you need them.
  • Orientation. North gives the most over a day. West gives less overall but more in the late afternoon, which matters if that is when you are home and paying peak rates.
  • What you can export. Distributors set limits on what a home may connect and push back into the grid, they differ by network, and single-phase homes are usually capped lower than three-phase. Approval comes before installation, not after.
  • Self-consumption beats system size. Power you use while the sun is up is worth far more than power you export. Shifting the dishwasher, the pool pump and the washing to the middle of the day changes the economics more than another two panels.

Who is allowed to install it

Grid-connected solar is licensed electrical work, and there is a second layer on top of it: the Clean Energy Council accreditation scheme that certificate entitlements depend on. An install signed off by someone without Clean Energy Council accreditation can leave you unable to claim, and unable to get the distributor to connect it.

Our solar install requirements checker walks through who may do the work, what approvals are needed and who signs off, state by state. Do that before you get quotes, not after.

Built for electricians and solar installers. See how Yamate handles quotes, invoices and getting paid for Electricians, or grab a free electrician quote template.

General information for Australian homeowners and trades, and an estimate only, not legal advice, and not electrical or engineering advice, and not a system design. Only a Clean Energy Council accredited designer can size a system for your roof, and your electricity distributor decides what may be connected and exported. The output-per-kW figures are rules of thumb, not the Clean Energy Regulator’s zone ratings, we could not read those from the Regulator’s site on 3 September 2026 and do not present these as theirs. Grid-connected solar is licensed electrical work and Clean Energy Council accreditation affects certificate entitlements. No regulator has reviewed this page.